Palencia, la bella desconocida

Palencia, la bella desconocida

A medio camino entre León y Burgos, el camino de Santiago aterriza en una ciudad hermosa, que pocos conocen y menos reconoces, dominada por dos símbolos: su Cristo del Otero, el quinto más alto de todo el mundo después del de Río de Janeiro, y su catedral, la tercera más grande de España.

Eclipsada por el gótico espectacular de sus hermanas leonina y burgalesa, su auténtico valor reside en su interior. Creo que podríamos decir que es el mejor símil para quien se acerca a Palencia: desde lejos no te llama a entrar por sus puertas. Pero, ¡ay!, cuando entras…

Todo el gótico te recibe, pero también el plateresco, y cuando accedes a la cripta… sientes que el ruido cesa.

Si Salamanca tiene un astronauta -alimentado la mente de muchos hacia lo sobrenatural – Palencia, o su catedral, no iba a quedarse atrás. Eso sí, con un fotógrafo convertido en gárgola.

Su torre, que llama poderosamente la atención, era hogar de presos, sacristanes y campaneros -para que os podáis hacer una idea de sus dimensiones -. Y toda ella parece dar fortuna y deseos (el fotógrafo, el pozo de la cripta, la coleta de la criada de Doña Inés…).

Aventura(rse) por Palencia

De Palencia se dice que es una de las ciudades españolas con más superficie forestal por habitante (solo superada por Vitoria). Pasear por sus grandes jardines cura el alma del viajero quien se puede parar cómodamente a leer aquellos versos que de niños nos hicieron memorizar…

Recuerde el alma dormida,
avive el seso e despierte
contemplando
cómo se passa la vida,
cómo se viene la muerte
tan callando;
cuán presto se va el plazer,
cómo, después de acordado,
da dolor;
cómo, a nuestro parescer,
cualquiere tiempo passado
fue mejor.

Porque si fue Manrique un modelo de caballero de su época, en las anteriores Palencia vivió aún más aventuras. De estas tierras fueron los infamas infantes de Carrión que ultrajaron al Cid Campeador (¿os imagináis una escultura en bronce hecha a mano para sujetar los libros?).

Aquí los reyes se disputaron los límites, vivieron los príncipes y despuntaron algunas princesas de película, como doña Berenguela I de Castilla, hija de Leonor de Inglaterra y nieta de Leonor de Aquitania (para los curiosos, José María Pérez “Peridis” tiene una buena novela sobre la época y los personajes, La maldición de la Reina Leonor).

Os dejo ahora, que voy a seguir con mi paseo por la Feria, en el Paseo del Salón de Isabel II.

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